As you have a basement or crawl space or any other spaces under your house floor, Then, the absolute fact is that it needs a sump pump and sump pit, So, today our question is: what is a sump pit?
A sump pit is a type of Hole with gravel base dug into the bottom of your crawl or basement space (about 2 feet deep in the basement floor and 18 inches wide). Mostly we found it In locations that usually recognize an excessive rain or where the water table is high, when the water leak in the pit, an autoactivation or sensor on the sump pump will turn the sump pump on automatically. It takes the water off from the home through pipes.
keep reading and focus.
What is the purpose of sump pit?
The sump pit is the primary indicator of your basement dryness, and almost the first detector of water leaks on your under house floor spaces, which plays the most important role in saving your property if the bad things happened. for that, you should place your sump pit in the lowest area on your basement or crawl in order to guarantee the ideal and correct functioning of it.
Is it common to not find water when digging a sump pit in a basement?
Definitely, it’s possible. It depends upon:
where the water table is in your particular location
which is largely based upon how well-drained your property is
the time of year and the amount of recent rainfall
if you’re living behind a river or lake, all this counts.
How deep is a sump pit?
The ideal pit form is about 30 inches in depth and from 18 to 24 inches horizontally. Standard sump pits insert available on the shops or in home improvement centers are 26 gallons and 18 inches diameter. mostly the pit should be a minimum of 24 inches and up to a depth of 36 inches.
When you dig a hole small in-depth than the recommended for an ideal sump pit this will make the pit fills up of water fastly, which comes in a bad effect on the sump pump lifetime because it will be on and off many times.
Because of the small volume of water that gathered in the pit, that means the big pit you have the more time lifetime of your sump pump and naturally more saving for your pockets.
Do You Need a Plumber to Install a Sump Pit?
On this blog finishingabasment.com, we encourage our readers and checkers to do the job by themselves not only for saving money but also cause of the fan and adventure that you will have among the work you have, especially if you have someone help you. For example, installing a sump pit is very easy for anyone under 16 years old.
My answer about this question is definitely you don’t need any plumber or even any person to that with you, and it will not take with a complete novice person for more than 2 hours. So follow the steps to install the sump pit in the next weekend.
How to Install a Sump pit
1.Dig the sump pit. Start by finding the lowest point of the floor (or the spot where water typically accumulates) that is at least 8″ from a foundation wall.
Outline an area that’s about 6″ wider than the pit liner all around. Remove the concrete in this area. Basement floors are typically 3″ to 4″ thick, so renting an electric jackhammer is a good idea.
2.Install the pit liner after digging a hole for it in the granular material under the floor. The hole should be a few inches wider than the liner.
Remove the excavated material right away. Add gravel to the bottom of the hole as needed to bring the liner level with the top of its rim at floor level.
3.Pack the liner in place by pouring 1/2″ gravel around it. Add a 1″ base of gravel and then mix concrete to patch the floor. Trowel the concrete around the rim with a float so the patch is level and smooth.
Where Should a Sump Pit be Located In The Basement?
Before: This basement had three utility windows along the end walls and structural columns running parallel to the long sidewall. A furnace and water heater broke up the central space, and there was a sump pit in one corner.
The goal for this space was to create a large family room, home office, bathroom, pool room, and storage area.
After: A few walls at one end of the basement define several of the new rooms. To add light to the home office, the existing window opening was expanded.
An egress window was installed, allowing the room to be used as a bedroom as well. A larger window and well were installed to provide light and a better view from the family room.
One column was hidden within the office wall; the remaining three were wrapped with wood trim. The mechanical room contains the furnace and water heater, with plenty of space for servicing the units.
Next to the office is a full bathroom, designed with a square layout that leaves a comfortable amount of space between the fixtures.
The pool room occupies a well-defined space, where games won’t disrupt activity in the family room.A wet bar can easily be accessed from both the pool room and family room.
The stairway needed only a new handrail to become code-compliant. At the bottom of the stairs, a built-in cabinet provides storage and adds a decorative touch to the basement entrance.
Whether it’s part of a complete wet room or installed as a standalone feature, a curbless shower combines easy access for those with limited mobility, convenience for other users, and a look that is trendy, sophisticated, and attractive.
The trick to installing one of these water features is to ensure the moisture stays inside the shower.
Once upon a time, creating a reliably waterproof enclosure for a curbless shower was no small chore.
It meant putting a lot of work into creating a custom shower pan. This kind of project was usually above the skill level or desire of the weekend DIYer, and it generally meant hiring a contractor.
Now you can buy curbless shower-pan kits that make installation a breeze.
The manufacturers have thought through all the issues that can arise and have developed the kits and shower pans to be as foolproof as possible, while also meeting prevailing codes and best standards and practices.
Installing a curbless shower using one of these kits is a realistic project for any home handyperson with even moderate DIY skills and a weekend to spare. These pans come with preconfigured slopes to ensure optimal drainage away from the shower’s edges.
The product we used for this project, the Tuff Form kit from Amazon, includes an offset drain hole that offers the option of rotating the pan in the event of a joist or mechanicals that are in the way.
This product is offered in nine different sizes and can be cut with a circular saw to just about any shape including more unusual, curvy shapes for a truly custom look. Curbless shower-pan manufacturers also sell pans with trench drains for an even sleeker look.
The pan we used for this project is typical of the prefab curbless pan construction; it can support 1,100 pounds even though the pan itself weighs less than 70 pounds.
It sits right on floor joists, with the addition of blocking to support the area around the drain and to provide nailing surfaces around the edges.
Kits like these offer advantages beyond the ease of installation and a thoughtful configuration of parts. Usually, the plumbing can be completely adjusted and connected from above, so you won’t need to work in the basement or crawl space, or open up the first-floor ceiling to install a second-floor shower.
The kits themselves generally include almost everything you’ll need for the installation.
TOOLS & MATERIALS
Curbless shower kit
Jigsaw or handsaw
Cordless drill and bits
PVC cement and brush
Palm sander and 120-grit pad
Roller and roller handle
Caulk/ construction adhesive
Ear and eye protection
WET ROOMS AND UNIVERSAL DESIGN
Because a wet room allows the bathroom to be designed with fewer barriers and a single-level floor surface, these rooms are natural partners to a universal design approach.
If you’re thinking about converting a bathroom to a wet room, it’s worthwhile to consider a little extra effort to make the space as accessible as possible for the maximum number of users.
Walls. Where codes allow it, consider using thick plywood rather than cement board for the wall subsurfaces. Plywood allows for direct installation of grab bars without the need for blocking or locating studs.
If you’re set on using cement board, plan out locations for grab bars near toilets, behind and alongside bathtubs, and in showers.
Most codes specify that grab bars must be able to support up to 200 pounds—which usually means adding blocking in the walls behind the grab bars.
Shower stall. One of the benefits of adding a curbless shower is easy wheelchair (or walker) access. For maximum accessibility, the shower area should be at least 60″ wide by at least 36″ deep (60″ by 60″ is preferable).
This allows a wheelchair user to occupy the stall with a helper. And, although the idea is a wide-open shower space, it’s always a good idea to add a fold-down seat. This allows for transfer from a wheelchair or a place for someone with limited leg strength and endurance to sit.
How to Install a Waterproof Sub-Base for a Curbless Shower
1. Remove the existing flooring material in the area of the shower pan (if you’re remodeling an existing bathroom). Use a circular saw to cut out and remove the subfloor in the exact dimensions of the shower pan. Finish the cuts with a jigsaw or handsaw.
2. Reinforce the floor with blocking between joists as necessary. Toenail bridge blocking in on either side of the drain waste-pipe location, and between joists anywhere you’ll need a nailing surface along the edges of the shower pan. If trusses or joists are spaced more than 16″ on center, add bridge blocking to adequately support the pan.
3. Set the pan in the opening to make sure it fits and is level. If it is not level, screw shims to the tops of any low joists and check again; repeat if necessary until the pan is perfectly level in all directions.
4. Install or relocate drain pipes as needed. Check with your local building department: if the drain and trap are not accessible from below you may need to have an onsite inspection before you cover up the plumbing.
5. Check the height of the drain pipe. Its top should be exactly 23⁄8″ from the bottom of the pan—measure down from the top of the joist. If the drainpipe is too high, remove it and trim with a tubing cutter. If it is too low, replace the assembly with a new assembly that has a longer tailpiece.
6. Lay a thick bead of construction adhesive along with the contact areas on all joists, nailing surfaces, and blocking.
7. Set the pan in place and screw it down using at least 2 screws along each side. Do not overtighten the screws. If you’ve cut off the screwing flange on one or more sides to accommodate an unusual shape, drill 1⁄8″ pilot holes in the cut edges at joist or blocking locations and drive the screws through the holes.
8. Disassemble the supplied drain assembly. Be careful not to lose any of the screws. Place the drain tailpiece on the waste pipe under where the pan’s drain hole will be located and measure to check that it sits at the correct level. Solvent-glue the tailpiece to the end of the waste pipe.
9. Position the supplied gaskets on top of the tailpiece (check the manufacturer’s instructions; the gaskets usually need to be layered in the correct order). Set the drain flange piece on top of the tail and into the drain hole in the pan. Drill 1⁄8″ pilot holes through the flange and into the pan. Screw the flange to the pan.
10. Thread the tail top piece into the tail through the drain flange. Use a speed square or other lever, such as spread-channel lock pliers, to snugly tighten the tail top piece in place.
11. Install tile underlayment for the rest of the project area. If the underlayment is higher than the top of the pan once it is installed, you’ll have to sand it to level, gradually tapering away from the pan.
12. Scrape any stickers or other blemishes off the pan with a putty knife. Lightly sand the entire surface of the pan using 120-grit sandpaper to help the sealant adhere. After you’re done sanding, wipe down the sanded pan with a damp sponge. Make sure the entire area is clean.
13. Seal the edge seams at the wall and between the pan and subfloor with waterproof latex sealant. Caulk any pan screw holes that were not used.
14. Cut strips of waterproofing tape to cover all seams in the tile underlayment (both walls and floor). Also, cut strips for the joints where walls and floor meet. Open the pail of liquid waterproofing membrane and mix the liquid thoroughly. Beginning at the top and working down, brush a bed of waterproofing liquid over the seams. Before it dries, set the tape firmly into the waterproofing. Press and smooth the tape. Then brush a layer of waterproofing compound over the tape
15. Trace a hole in the center of the waterproof drain gasket using the bottom of the drain clamping donut. Cut the hole out using scissors. Be careful cutting the gasket because it is a crucial part of the drain waterproofing. Check the fit with the gasket against the underside of the clamping donut top flange.
16. Apply a thin coat of the waterproofing compound around the drain hole and to the back of the drain gasket. Don’t apply too much; if the waterproofing is too thick under the gasket, it may not dry correctly.
17. Put the gasket in place and brush a coat of the waterproofing over the gasket. Screw the clamping donut in place on the top of the drain and over the membrane. Hand-tighten the bolts and then cover the clamping donut with the waterproofing compound (avoid covering the slide lock for the drain grate).
18. Use a roller to roll waterproofing compound across the walls and over the entire pan surface. The ideal is 4mm thick (about the thickness of a credit card). Allow this first coat to dry for 2 hours, then cover with a second coat. This should conclude the waterproofing phase of the project, and you’re ready to begin laying tile once the waterproofing compound has dried thoroughly.
How to Install Tile for a Curbless Shower
TOOLS & MATERIALS
Ear and eye protection
Thinset tile adhesive
Tile saw or nippers
1. Set the floor tile first. Begin by placing a sample of the floor tile directly next to the drain so you can set the drain grate height to match. The adjustable mounting plate for the grate should be flush with the tops of the tile.
2. Begin laying floor tile in the corner of the shower. Lay a bed of thin-set tile adhesive, using a notched trowel. The thinset container should specify the notch size (3⁄8″ square notch is common).
3. Place the corner tile into the bed of thin-set and press it to set it. Don’t press down too hard or you will displace too much of the material. Continue laying tile, fanning out from the corner toward the drain opening. Leave space around the drain opening as it is likely you’ll need to cut tiles to fit.
4. Install tile so a small square of the untiled area is left around the drain opening (which, in the system seen here, is square, making for an easier cutting job)
5. Mark the tiles that surround the drain opening for cutting. Leave a small gap between the tiles next to the drain-grate mounting plate.
6. Cut the tiles along the trim lines using a tile saw. If you are not comfortable using a tile saw, score the tiles and cut them with tile nippers.
7. Apply thin-set onto the shower pan, taking care not to get any on the drain-grate mounting plate. You may need to use a small trowel or a putty knife to get into small gaps.
8. Set the cut tiles around the drain opening, doing your best to maintain even gaps that match the gaps in the rest of the floor. Once you’ve finished tiling around the drain, finish setting floor tile in the rest of the project area.
9. Let the floor tile set overnight and then apply grout. Using a grout sponge, wipe the grout over the gaps so all gaps are filled evenly. After the grout dries, buff the floor with a towel to wipe up excess residue.
10. Snap the grate cover into the cover mounting plate (if you’ve stuffed a rag into the drain opening to keep debris out, be sure to remove it first). The grate cover seen here locks in with a small key that should be saved in case you need to remove the grate cover.
11. Begin setting the wall tile. Generally, it’s easiest if you start at the bottom and work upward. Instead of thinset adhesive, an adhesive mat is being used here. This relatively new product is designed for walls and is rated for waterproof applications. It is a good idea to use a spacer (¼” thick or so) to get an even border at the bottoms of the first tiles.
12. In the design used here, a border of the same mosaic tile used in the floor is installed all around the shower area to make the first course. Dark-brown accent tiles are installed in a single vertical column running upward, centered on the line formed by the shower faucet and showerhead. This vertical column is installed after the bottom border.
13. Next, another vertical column of accent tiles is installed on each side of the large, dark tiles. These columns are also laid using the floor tile, which connects the walls and floor visually in an effective way.
14. Finally, larger field tiles that match the floor tile used outside the shower area are installed up to the corner and outward from the shower area. Starting at the bottom, set a thin spacer on top of the border tiles to ensure even gaps.
15. Grout the gaps in the wall tiles. It’s usually a good idea to protect any fittings, such as the shower faucet handle escutcheon, with painter’s tape prior to grouting. If you wish, a clear surround may be installed to visually define the shower area, as in the photo to the right, but because the shower pan is pitched toward the drain it really is not necessary.
Replacing a bathtub or installing a new one is a difficult work that requires some technics and tricks.
But, if you have some plumbing experience, you can deem it as a DIY project that you feel comfortable tackling. because Installing a bathtub is a complex job that shouldn’t be attempted by novices.
I’m here for thais reason, so, keep reading and focus in order to claim the fruits of my experience in this field of work.
Most homes are equipped with a bathtub that includes a tub surround and shower. By combining the tub and the shower in one fixture, you conserve precious bathroom floor space and simplify the initial installation. Plus, you only have one bathing fixture that needs cleaning.
But because tub-showers are so efficient, they do get a lot of use and tend to have fairly limited lifespans. The fact that the most inexpensive tubs on the market are designed for alcove use also reduces the average lifespan.
Pressed-steel tubs have enamel finishes that crack and craze; plastic and fiberglass tubs get grimy and stained; and even acrylic and composite tubs show wear eventually (and as with other fixtures, styles and colors change too).
Plumbing an alcove tub is a relatively difficult job because getting access to the drain lines attached to the tub and into the floor is often very awkward.
Although an access panel is required by most codes, the truth is that many tubs were installed without them or with panels that are too small or hard to reach to be of much use.
If you are contemplating replacing your tub, the first step in the decision process should be to find the access panel and determine if it is sufficient. If it is not (or there is no panel at all), consider how you might enlarge it.
Often, this means cutting a hole in the wall on the adjoining room and also in the ceiling below.
This creates more work, of course, but compared to the damage caused by a leaky drain from a subpar installation, making an access opening is a little inconvenience.
Before You Start
Tools & Materials
Galvanized deck screws
1 × 3, 1 × 4, and 2 × 4 lumber
Galvanized roofing nails
Galvanized roof flashing
Tub and tile caulk
Eye and ear protection
Shut off the water at the mainline. The first step is to turn off the water for the bathroom you’ll be working in. Locate the line and shut it all the way off. Then, open the faucet in your tub to drain the lines.
How to Install a New Bathtub (alcove Tub)
1. Prepare for the new tub. Inspect and remove old or deteriorated wall surfaces or framing members in the tub area.
With today’s mold-resistant wallboard products, it makes extra sense to go ahead and strip off the old alcove wall coverings and ceiling down to the studs so you can replace them. This also allows you to inspect for hidden damage in the wall and ceiling cavities.
2. Check the subfloor for level—if it is not level, use pour-on floor leveler compound to correct it (ask at your local home center).
Make sure the supply and drain pipes and the shutoff valves are in good repair and correct any problems you encounter. If you have no bath fan in the alcove, now is the perfect time to add one.
3. Check the height of the cross braces for the faucet body and the showerhead. If your family members needed to stoop to use the old shower, consider raising the brace for the showerhead.
Read the instructions for your new faucet/diverter and check to see that the brace for the faucet body will conform to the requirements (this includes the distance from the surrounding wall as well as height). Adjust the brace locations as needed.
4. Begin by installing the new water-supply plumbing. Measure to determine the required height of your shower-riser tube and cut it to length.
Attach the bottom of the riser to the faucet body and the top to the shower elbow.
5. Attach the faucet body to the cross-brace with pipe-hanger straps. Then, attach supply tubing from the stop valves to the faucet body, making sure to attach the hot water to the left port and cold to the right port.
Also, secure the shower elbow to its cross-brace with a pipe strap. Do not attach the shower arm yet.
6. Slide the bathtub into the alcove. Make sure the tub is flat on the floor and pressed flush against the back wall.
If your tub did not come with a tub protector, cut a piece of cardboard to line the tub bottom, and tape pieces of cardboard around the rim to protect the finish from damage.
7. Mark locations for ledger boards. To do this, trace the height of the top of the tub’s nailing flange onto the wall studs in the alcove. Then remove the tub and measure the height of the nailing flange.
Measure down this same amount from your flange lines and mark new ledger-board locations.
8. Install 1 × 4 ledger boards. Drive two or three 3″ galvanized deck screws through the ledger board at each stud.
All three walls should receive a ledger. Leave an open space in the wet wall to allow clearance for the drain-waste-overflow (DWO) kit.
9. Install the drain-waste-overflow (DWO) pipes before you install the tub. Make sure to get a good seal on the slip nuts at the pipe joints.
Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to make sure the pop-up drain linkage is connected properly. Make sure rubber gaskets are positioned correctly at the openings on the outside of the tub.
10. Thread the male-threaded drain strainer into the female-threaded drain-waste elbow. Wrap a coil of plumber’s putty around the drain outlet underneath the plug rim first. Hand-tighten only.
11. Attach the overflow cover plate, making sure the pop-up drain controls are in the correct position.
Tighten the mounting screws that connect to the mounting plate to sandwich the rubber gasket snugly between the overflow pipe flange and the tub wall.
Then, finish tightening the drain strainer against the waste elbow by inserting the handle of a pair of pliers into the strainer body and turning
12. Place the tub back into the alcove, taking care not to bump the DWO assembly and disturb the connections.
You definitely will want a helper for this job. If the drain outlet of the DWO assembly is not directly over the drainpipe when the tub is in position, you’ll need to remove it and adjust the drain line location.
13. Attach the drain outlet from the DWO assembly to the drain P-trap. If your alcove walls are covered, you will appreciate that you spent the time to create a roomy access panel for the tub plumbing.
Test the drain and overflow to make sure they don’t leak. Also test the water-supply plumbing, temporarily attaching the handles, spout, and shower arm so you can operate the faucet and the diverter.
A tub alcove is sized to accept a standard bathtub, usually 5′ long in most of North America. A tub with an apron is typical, but you can build out the front instead if you choose.
14. Drive a 1½” galvanized roofing nail at each stud location, just over the top of the tub’s nailing flange (inset).
The nail head should pin the flange to the stud. For extra protection against moisture penetration, nail strips of metal flashing to the studs so they cover the tub flange.
15. Install the wall coverings and tub surround (see pages 110 to 113 for a 3-piece surround installation). You can also make a custom surround from tileboard or cement board and tile.
16. Install fittings. First, thread the shower arm into the shower elbow and attach the spout nipple to the valve assembly.
Also attach the showerhead and escutcheon, the faucet handle/ diverter with escutcheon, and the tub spout. Use thread lubricant on all parts.
Always when I plan to remodel my basement bathroom or any other bathrooms as an employe in this field, I have to change the toilet seat mostly as an important part of the work.
You can replace a poorly functioning or inefficient toilet with a high-efficiency, high-quality new toilet in just a single afternoon. All toilets made since 1996 have been required to use 1.6 gallons or less per flush, which has been a huge challenge for the industry.
Today, the most evolved water-saving toilets have wide passages behind the bowl and wide flush valve openings-features that facilitate short, powerful flushes. This means fewer second flushes and fewer clogged toilets.
These problems were common complaints of the first generation of 1.6-gallon toilets and continue to beleaguer inferior models today. See which toilets are available at your local home center in your price range, then go online and see what other consumers’ experiences with those models have been.
New toilets often go through a “de-bugging” stage when problems with leaks and malfunctioning parts are more common. Your criteria should include ease of installation, good flush performance, and reliability. With a little research, you should be able to purchase and install a high-functioning, economical toilet that will serve you well for years to come.
Sleek new toilet options offer attractive bathroom additions that are also more comfortable than ever before. This toilet features a compact design with a rough-in distance of 10 inches, translating to a lot of extra floor space in front of the toilet. The seat itself is positioned at chair height, making it extra comfortable for most users.
Buy a toilet that will fit the space.Measure the distance from the floor bolts back to the wall (if your old toilet has two pairs of bolts, go by the rear pair). This is your rough-in distance and will be either 10″, 12″, or approximately 14″. Make note of the bowl shape, round or oval (long). Oval bowls (also called elongated bowls) are a few inches longer for greater comfort but maybe too big for your space. The safest bet is to buy a replacement with the same bowl shape. You can also opt for a wall-mounted unit. Although the installation is more involved, you can save up to a foot of floor space in front of the toilet— with the added bonus of being able to mount the toilet at whatever height works best for the primary users of the room.
Knowing how a toilet works isn’t essential to a successful installation,but it helps. This cutaway photo features a pre-1.6-gallon-law model, so your new toilet will have a much smaller trap. When the flush handle on the tank is depressed, the water in the tank rushes out through the hole in the underside of the bowl rim. The onrushing water forces the contents of the bowl and the trap out through the closet flange and into the drain line, while the fresh tank water refills the bowl and trap.
Table of Contents
Choosing a New Toilet
Toilets have changed in recent years. There’s a toilet to fit every style. You can even buy a square or stainless-steel toilet, among many other new options. The new designs are efficient, durable, and less susceptible to clogs.
A toilet’s style is partly affected by the way it’s built. You have a number of options from which to choose:
–Two‑piece toiletshave a separate water tank and bowl.
Two‑piece toilets with a separate tank and bowl are much more common than one-piece models, and usually a lot less costly. The cheapest models are compact with a seat that is not as high above the floor as a full-size model. This can create access difficulty for some users. Round-bowl models usually cost less than models with a larger, elongated bowl.
–One‑piecetoilets have a tank and bowl made of one seamless unit.
–Elongated bowlsare roughly 2″ longer than regular bowls.
–Elevated toiletshave higher seats, generally 18″, rather than the standard 15″.
Some high‑end toilets are designed to get maximum pressure out of a small amount of water. Many employ narrower trapways (the path water travels through the bowl) in conjunction with large-diameter flush valves. Some models use as little as 1.2 gallons of water.
You have a choice of two basic types of flush mechanisms: gravity- and pressure-assisted.
–Gravity‑assisted toiletsallow water to rush down from an elevated tank into the toilet bowl. Federal law mandates that new toilets consume no more than 1.6 gallons of water per flush, less than half the volume used by older styles.
–Pressure‑assisted toiletsrely on either compressed air or water pumps to boost flushing power.
Dual‑flush systemsfeature two flush buttons on the top of the tank, allowing you to select either an 8-ounce flush for liquids or a 1.6-gallon flush for solids.
Pressure‑assisted toiletsare relatively expensive, but they can reduce your water usage significantly by eliminating multiple flushes. The flush mechanism of a pressure-assisted toilet boosts the flushing power by using either compressed air or water pumps.
How to Remove a Toilet
Remove the old supply tube. First, turn off the water at the stop valve. Flush the toilet, holding the handle down for a long flush, and sponge out the tank. Use a wet/dry vac to clear any remaining water out of the tank and bowl. Unthread the coupling nut for the water supply below the tank using channel-type pliers.
Grip each tank bolt nut with a box wrench or pliers and loosen it as you stabilize each tank bolt from inside the tank with a large slotted screwdriver. If the nuts are stuck, apply penetrating oil to the nut and let it sit before trying to remove them again. You may also cut the tank bolts between the tank and the bowl with an open-ended hacksaw. Remove and discard the tank.
3. Remove the nuts that hold the bowl to the floor. First, pry off the bolt covers with a screwdriver. Use a socket wrench, locking pliers, or your channel-type pliers to loosen the nuts on the tank bolts. Apply penetrating oil and let it sit if the nuts are stuck, then take them off. As a last resort, cut the bolts off with a hacksaw by first cutting down through one side of the nut. Tilt the toilet bowl over and remove it.
Prying Up Wax Rings
Removing an old wax ring is one of the more disgusting jobs you’ll encounter in the plumbing universe (the one you see here is actually in relatively good condition). Work a stiff putty knife underneath the plastic flange of the ring (if you can) and start scraping. In many cases, the wax ring will come off in chunks. Discard each chunk right away—they stick to everything. If you’re left with a lot of residues, scrub with mineral spirits. Once clean, stuff a rag-in-a-bag in the drain opening to block sewer gas.
How to Install a Toilet
1.Clean and inspect the old closet flange. Look for breaks or wear. Also, inspect the flooring around the flange. If either the flange or floor is worn or damaged, repair the damage. Use a rag and mineral spirits to completely remove residue from the old wax ring. Place a rag-in-a-bag into the opening to block odors.
If the old flange is solvent-welded to the closet pipe, cut the pipe flush with the floor. Dry-fit the new flange into the pipe. Turn the flange until the side cut-out screw slots are parallel to the wall. (Do not use the curved keyhole slots, as they are not as strong.) Attach the new flange with solvent glue.
2.Insert new closet bolts (don’t reuse old ones) into the openings in the closet flange. Make sure the heads of the bolts are oriented to catch the maximum amount of flange material.
3.Remove the wax ring and apply it to the underside of the bowl, around the horn. Remove the protective covering. Do not touch the wax ring. It is very sticky.
4.Lower the bowl onto the flange, taking care not to disturb the wax ring. The holes in the bowl base should align perfectly with the tank bolts. Add a washer and tighten a nut on each bolt. Hand-tighten each nut and then use channel-type pliers to further tighten the nuts. Alternate back and forth between nuts until the bowl is secure. Do not overtighten.
5.Attach the toilet tank. Some tanks come with a flush valve and a fill valve preinstalled, but if yours does not, insert the flush valve through the tank opening and tighten a spud nut over the threaded end of the valve. Place a foam or rubber spud washer on top of the spud nut.
6.Adjust the fill valve as directed by the manufacturer to set the correct tank water-level height and install the valve inside the tank. Hand-tighten the nylon lock nut that secures the valve to the tank (inset photo) and then tightens it farther with channel-type pliers
7.With the tank lying on its back, thread a rubber washer onto each tank bolt and insert it into the bolt holes from inside the tank. Then, thread a brass washer and hex nut onto the tank bolts from below and tighten them to a ¼-turn past hand tight. Do not overtighten.
8.Position the tank on the bowl, spud washer on the opening, bolts through bolt holes. Put a rubber washer followed by a brass washer and a wing nut on each bolt and tighten these up evenly.
9.You may stabilize the bolts with a large slotted screwdriver from inside the tank, but tighten the nuts, not the bolts. You may press down a little on a side, the front or the rear of the tank to level it as you tighten the nuts by hand. Do not overtighten and crack the tank. The tank should be level and stable when you’re done.
10.Hook up the water supply by connecting the supply tube to the threaded fill valve with the coupling nut provided. Turn on the water and test for leaks
11.Attach the toilet seat by threading the plastic or brass bolts provided with the seat through the openings on the back of the rim and attaching nuts.
One-piece faucets, with either one or two handles, are the most popular fixtures for bathroom installations. “Widespread” faucets with separate spout and handles are being installed with increasing frequency.
however. Because the handles are connected to the spout with flex tubes that can be 18″ or longer, widespread faucets can be arranged in many ways.
Now i will give you the correct and perfect recipe in order to install your bathroom faucet. keep reading and focus.
Bathroom faucets come in four basic mounting styles: centerset, single hole, wall-mounted, and widespread. The type you choose depends largely on the sink or faucet body you are using-the new faucet may need to match the existing fixture. But in any case, the range of designs available in all mounting styles is astounding.
Widespread faucets have a clean, sophisticated look. They come in three pieces instead of one: a hot tap, a cold tap, and a spout. Each piece is mounted separately in its own hole in the sink.
The hot and cold taps (valves) are connected to the spout with reinforced flexible hoses. If your lavatory doesn’t have a predrilled flange, the great advantage to the widespread configuration is that you gain flexibility in locating your spout and handles (probably a bigger advantage for tubs than for lavatories). Even models made for bathroom lavatories, like the one you see here, offer many creative configuration options.
Single-body and centerset faucets are designed to fit into standard hole configurations. Make sure you know your sink’s dimensions before buying the faucet: the most important dimension is the hole spread: 4 inches on center and 8 inches on center are most common.
BASIC LAVATORY FAUCET TYPES
Widespread faucets allow you to customize the locations and orientation of the faucets and spout in your sink deck.
Single-body faucets are faster and easier to install and are extremely reliable.
Widespread faucets come in three pieces, a spout and two valves. Supply risers carry hot and cold water to the valves, which are turned to regulate the amount of water going to the spout, where the water is mixed.
Water travels from the valves to the spout through flex tubes, which in turn attach to the spout tailpiece via a T-fitting. Three-piece faucets designed to work with a pop-up stopper have a clevis and a lift rod. The handles attach with handle screws that are covered with index caps. An aerator is screwed on the faucet spout after the debris is flushed from the faucet.
The tailpieces of a standard deck-mounted, one-piece bathroom sink faucet are 4″ apart on center. As long as the 2 outside holes in the back of your sink measure 4″ from the center to center, and you have a middle hole for a pop-up stopper, you can put in any standard one-piece bathroom faucet with a pop-up stopper.
The faucet is secured to the sink with mounting nuts that screw onto the tailpieces from below. Also get two flexible stainless steel supply risers for sinks, long enough to replace the old tubes.
These typically attach to the stop valves with 3⁄8″ compression-sized coupling nuts and to the faucet with standard faucet coupling nuts. But take your old tubes and the old compression nuts from the stop valves to the store to ensure a match.
The clevis, lift rod, and pivot rod is parts of the pop-up stopper assembly. The handles attach with handle screws that are covered with index caps.
How to Install a Widespread Faucet?
1-Tools and Materials Needed
New 3-piece faucet
Eye and ear protection
2-Shut off the water to the existing faucet
And open the valves to drain the water. Disconnect the water-supply tubes from the faucet, and remove the old faucet by unscrewing the mounting nuts.
NOTE: Removing the old faucet and installing the new one may be easiest if you remove the sink from the vanity.
3- Clean Away
Any existing plumber’s putty or sealant from the surface of the sink, then lay a new bead of plumbers putty around each of the 3 openings. Install the 2 valves into the sink cutout openings by inserting the spout and valves and then threading the mounting screws onto the tailpieces from below the sink.
4-Start Installing the Faucet
Insert the shank of the faucet spout through one of the holes in the sink deck (usually the center hole, but you can offset it in one of the end holes if you prefer). If the faucet is not equipped with seals or O-rings for the spout and handles, pack plumber’s putty on the undersides before inserting the valves into the deck. Note: If you are installing the widespread faucet in a new sink deck, drill three holes of the size suggested by the faucet manufacturer.
In addition to mounting nuts, many spout valves for widespread faucets have an open-retainer fitting that goes between the underside of the deck and the mounting nut. Others have only a mounting nut. In either case, tighten the mounting nut with pliers or a basin wrench to secure the spout valve. You may need a helper to keep the spout centered and facing forward.
Mount the valves to the deck using whichever method the manufacturer specifies (it varies quite a bit). In the model seen here, a mounting ring is positioned over the deck hole (with plumber’s putty seal) and the valve is inserted from below. A clip snaps onto the valve from above to hold it in place temporarily (you’ll want a helper for this).
From below, thread the mounting nuts that secure the valves to the sink deck. Make sure the cold water valve (usually has a blue cartridge inside) is in the right-side hole (from the front) and the hot water valve (red cartridge) is in the left hole. Install both valves.
Once you’ve started the nut on the threaded valve shank, secure the valve with a basin wrench, squeezing the lugs where the valve fits against the deck. Use an adjustable wrench to finish tightening the lock nut onto the valve. The valves should be oriented so the water outlets are aimed at the inlet on the spout shank.
Attach the flexible supply tubes (supplied with the faucet) to the water outlets on the valves. Some twist onto the outlets, but others (like the ones above) click into place. The supply hoses meet in a T-fitting that is attached to the water inlet on the spout.
Attach flexible braided-metal supply risers to the water stop valves and then attach the tubes to the inlet port on each valve (usually with Teflon tape and a twist-on fitting at the valve end of the supply riser).
Attach the spout. The model shown here comes with a special hex wrench that is threaded through the hole in the spout where the lift rod for the pop-up drain will be located. Once the spout is seated cleanly on the spout shank, you tighten the hex wrench to secure the spout. Different faucets will use other methods to secure the spout to the shank.
If your sink did not have a pop-up stopper, you’ll need to replace the sink drain tailpiece with a pop-up stopper body (often supplied with the faucet). Insert the lift rod through the hole in the back of the spout and, from below, thread the pivot rod through the housing for the clevis screw.
Attach the clevis strap to the pivot rod that enters the pop-up drain body, and adjust the position of the strap so it raises and lowers properly when the lift rod is pulled up. Tighten the clevis screw at this point. It’s hard to fit a screwdriver in here, so you may need to use a wrench or pliers.
Attach the faucet handles to the valves using whichever method is required by the faucet manufacturer. Most faucets are designed with registration methods to ensure that the handles are symmetrical and oriented in an ergonomic way once you secure them to the valves.
Turn on the water supply and test the faucet. Remove the faucet aerator and run the water for 10 to 20 seconds so any debris in the lines can clear the spout. Replace the aerator.
How to Install a Single-body Faucet
1-High-quality faucets come with flexible plastic gaskets that create a durable watertight seal at the bottom of the faucet, where it meets the sink deck. However, an inexpensive faucet may have a flimsy-looking foam seal that doesn’t do a good job of sealing and disintegrates after a few years. If that is the case with your faucet, discard the seal and press a ring of plumber’s putty into the sealant groove on the underside of the faucet body.
2-Insert the faucet tailpieces through the holes in the sink. From below, thread washers and mounting nuts over the tailpieces, then tighten the mounting nuts with a basin wrench until snug. Put a dab of pipe joint compound on the threads of the stop valves and thread the metal nuts of the flexible supply risers to these. Wrench tighten about a half-turn past hand tight. Overtightening these nuts will strip the threads. Now tighten the coupling nuts to the faucet tailpieces with a basin wrench.
3-Slide the lift rod of the new faucet into its hole behind the spout. Thread it into the clevis past the clevis screw. Push the pivot rod all the way down so the stopper is open. With the lift rod also all the way down, tighten the clevis to the lift rod.
4-Grease the fluted valve stems with faucet grease, then put the handles in place. Tighten the handle screws firmly, so they won’t come loose during operation. Cover each handle screw with the appropriate index cap—Hot or Cold.
5-Unscrew the aerator from the end of the spout. Turn the hot and cold water taps on full. Turn the water back on at the stop valves and flush out the faucet for a couple of minutes before turning off the water at the faucet. Check the riser connections for drips. Tighten a compression nut only until the drip stops.
What is the best bathroom sink faucet?
Delta Lahara Two Handle Centerset Lavatory Faucet
American Standard Reliant 3 Bathroom Centerset Faucet
Angular Modern Single Handle Lavatory Faucet
Premier Sanibel Lead-Free, Single-Handle Lavatory Faucet
Moen Eva One-Handle, High Arc Bathroom Faucet
Pfister Jaida Single Control 4″ Centerset Bathroom Faucet
Replacing bathroom sinks and countertops is a quick and relatively inexpensive way to give your bathroom a fresh, new look. you can learn to plan properly and install your new sink securely.
While different sinks will need to be installed depending on the variations of the kit you’re using, the basic steps in the process are usually the same.
First, disconnect the plumbing, then remove the sink basin or integral sink‑countertop unit. Next, take out any remaining countertops. Finally, start installing the new one.
By following my instructions and tricks that I have learned among my experience in this field and by focusing and keep reading you’ll learn how to assemble and fit your new sink into place quickly and efficiently.
1-Get the Necessary Tools for the Job
You can install a new sink with basic tools that you may have before and new components that match the valves already installed in your plumbing. Make sure you have:
Hacksaw or pipe cutter
Flat pry bar
Eye and ear protection
Plumbers’ wrenches, either a pipe wrench or slip-joint pliers
Set of plumbing sockets
2- Turning OFF the Water Supply Valves
always before you start any plumbing work you must first shut off the water and/or the gas supply to the part that you are working on, in our situation we need to shut off the water supply to the sink before we remove it.
Typically located beneath the sink, If the valves are not beneath the sink, then you’ll have to turn off the main water supply. This is typically located on a lower level. To test, turn on the hot and cold water on your sink and make sure no water comes out before proceeding.
3-How to Disconnect Sink Plumbing
Turn off the shutoff valves, then remove the coupling nuts that connect the supply tube to the faucet tailpieces using a basin wrench. If the supply tubes are soldered, cut them above the shutoff valves.
With a bucket beneath, remove the P-trap by loosening the slip nuts at both ends. If the nuts will not turn, cut out the drain trap with a hacksaw. When prying or cutting, take care to avoid damaging the trap arm that runs into the wall.
Disconnect the pop-up drain linkage from the tailpiece of the sink drain by unscrewing the retaining nut.
4-Removing the Existing Sink
Undermount sink: Disconnect the plumbing, including the drain tailpiece. To support the sink, tie wire around a piece of scrap wood and set the wood across the sink opening. Thread the wire down through the drain hole and attach it to another scrap of wood. Twist the wire until taut, then detach the mounting clips. Slice through any caulking, slowly loosen the wire, then remove the sink.
Self-rimming sink: Disconnect the plumbing, then slice through any caulking or sealant between the sink rim and the countertop using a utility knife. Lift the sink off the countertop.
Wall-mounted sink: Disconnect the plumbing, slice through any caulk or sealant, then lift the sink off the wall brackets. For models attached with lag screws, wedge 2 × 4s between the sink and floor to support it while the screws are removed.
Pedestal sink: Disconnect the plumbing. If the sink and pedestal are bolted together, disconnect them. Remove the pedestal first, supporting the sink from below with 2 × 4s. Lift the sink off the wall brackets (photo, left).
Integral sink-countertop: Disconnect the plumbing, then detach the mounting hardware underneath the countertop. Slice through any caulk or sealant between the countertop and wall and between the countertop and vanity. Lift the sink-countertop unit off the vanity.
5-Installing The New Sink
1. Remove the existing sink.
Remove the existing sink if any. Remove wall coverings as necessary to install blocking for mounting the sink. Reroute water-supply and drain lines as necessary, according to the sink manufacturer’s directions. The sink in this project required the center points of the waste pipe by 21″ and the supply lines 24¾” up from the finished floor.
If you’re unsure of your plumbing skills or code requirements, hire a professional plumber for this part of the project. Install blocking between the studs for attaching the mounting bracket for the sink. A doubled 2 × 8 is installed here.
Has your plumbing inspected, if required by your municipality, before you install the drywall and finished wall surface?
2. Drill guide holes for the mounting bolts
your sink is a direct-mount model, as this one is. Some wall-hung sinks are hung from a mounting bracket. The bolts used to hang this sink are threaded like lag screws on one end, with a bolt end that projects from the wall.
The guide holes should be spaced exactly as the manufacturer specifies so they align with the mounting holes in the back mounting flange on the sink.
TIP: Protect tile surfaces with masking tape in the drilling areas to avoid chip‑out.
3. Drive the Threaded Mounting Bolts Into the Guide Holes
. There should be pilot holes (smaller than the guide holes) driven into the blocking. To drive this hardware, spin a pair of nuts onto the bolt end and turn the bolt closest to you with a wrench.
Drive the mounting bolt until the end is projecting out from the wall by a little more than 1½”.
Remove the nuts. Install the pop-up drain in the sink and then slide the sink over the ends of the mounting bolts so the mounting flange is flush against the wall. You’ll want help with this.
Thread the washers and nuts onto the ends of the mounting bolts and hand-tighten. Check to make sure the sink is level and then tighten the nuts with a socket or wrench, reaching up into the void between the basin and the flange. Don’t overtighten— you could crack the sink flange.
4. Have a Helper
Hold the Sink Pedestal in position against the underside of the sink. Mark the edges of the pedestal on the wall covering as reference for installing the pedestal-mounting hardware.
5. Remove the pedestal and drill the pilot holes for the pedestal mounting bolts
which work in much the same way as the sink-mounting bolts. Drill guide and pilot holes, then drive the mounting bolts, leaving about 1¼” of the bolt end exposed.
6. Install the drain and drain tailpiece on the sink
Also, mount the faucet body to the sink deck if you have not done so already. Also, attach the drain-trap arm to the drain stub-out in the wall and attach shutoff valves to the drain-supply lines.
7. Complete the drain connection
by installing a P-trap assembly that connects the tailpiece and the trap arm. Also, connect the drain pop-up rod that projects out of the tailpiece to the popup plunger mechanism you’ve already installed.
8. Make sure the shutoff valve fittings are tight and oriented correctly
then hook up the faucet supply risers to the shutoff valves. Turn on the water supply and test.
9. Slide the pedestal into place on the mounting studs
Working through the access space under the sink, use a wrench to tighten the mounting nut over the washer on the stud. Carefully tighten the nut until the pedestal is held securely in place. Be careful not to overtighten the nut.
10. Attach the towel bar to the sink
By first pushing the well nuts into the holes on the underside of the sink rim. Set the bar in place, and screw in the attachment screws on both sides, just until snug.
To quickly and easily find an under sink leak, lay bright white paper or paper towels under the pipes and drain connections. Open the water supply valves and run water in the sinks. It should be clear exactly where the water dripped from by the location of the drip on the paper.
How much does it cost to install a bathroom sink?
Installation costs vary greatly depending on the style of sink, the complexity of the job, and the contractor. On average, homeowners report paying between 150$ to 300$ for the plumber labor, and with the fixtures, on average it cost 380$, and you can minimize your costs by doing the work with yourself.