Framing Corners & Intersecting Walls

Framing every corner of your own basement or house with yourself or with your lovers is a great adventure that you’ll take in the 21st century, every adventure has mysterious or hidden tricks somewhere and the corners are this parts, not on the physical side but on the technical side especially if you are novice or beginner in this field.

so to make your understanding of this part of the framing somehow, easy and acceptable I will explain the framing of intersecting walls in order to minimize the marge of misunderstanding the functional parts of this work, keep reading and focus.

Framing Intersecting Walls

Virtually every framing project that you take on will involve an intersection of walls. The framing for this junction needs to do two things. First, it must create a solid foundation for bracing the intersecting wall. Second, it needs to provide nailing or screwing surfaces in the inside corners for drywall or other wall coverings.

The most common method to accomplish both tasks is to add blocking, as shown below. The type of blocking you use will depend on the type of wall (load-bearing vs. non-load-bearing) and how tight your budget is. Blocking can be full-length, partial, 1×6, or overlapping studs. Note: Although most interior walls are framed with 2x4s, walls that carry plumbing often need to be framed with 2x6s to allow clearance for the supply and waste lines. Check your local building code to make sure which of the intersections shown here are allowed in your area.

2×4 Walls with Full Blocking The most standard method used to connect intersecting 2×4 walls is to build a U-shaped column in one wall made from three studs: two wall studs and a full-length stud referred to as blocking (see the photo at right). The blocking then serves as a foundation to firmly attach the end stud of the intersecting wall. This method creates full1W’-wide surfaces in both inside corners. This supports the drywall fully and provides plenty of surface area for attaching drywall with nails or screws.

2×4 Walls with Partial Blocking If you’re looking for ways to save money on a large framing project, you can use the same method as described above but with a twist. Instead of using a full-length stud as blocking, you trim cutoffs to fit between the wall studs and then face-nail blocking every 2 feet or so. This will save money on studs, but it doesn’t fully support the intersecting wall as solidly as the method described above.

2×4 Walls with 1 x6 Another alternative method to create drywall surfaces in the corners of intersecting walls is to use install a full-length 1×6 (see the photo at left). Since the thinner 1 x6 serves as the foundation for the end stud of the intersecting wall, it’s not as solid as using 2-by material. This method should be used only for non-Ioadbearing partition walls that don’t have to support any weight. For better support, screw the 1 x6 to horizontal blocking added at 2-foot intervals.

Economy 2×4 Connedion The most economical way to connect intersecting 2×4 walls is to place two studs on one wall close enough together so that end stud of the intersecting wall can be face-nailed to them (see the photo at left). This method creates drywall surfaces, albeit narrow ones. It also saves money since you need one less stud for each transition compared to the standard method shown on page 66. If you’re framing a new wall or small structure like a shed, this won’t amount to much; but for contractors who build large structures, the savings can be considerable.


A shop-made channel marker is a quick and accurate way to layout wall intersections and corners on plating. Just screw together two 10″-long scraps of 2×4 as shown so that one end of the vertical piece extends about 3″ past the end of the horizontal piece.

To use the channel marker, place it at the desired location, with the vertical piece butted up firmly against the plating. Then run a pencil along each side of the horizontal piece to mark the channel.

How to Frame Corners

Just as there are various ways to frame intersecting walls, there are a number of methods to choose from for framing corners. Here again, the factors that affect your choice will be how strong you need the corner to be, what your budget is like, and what the local codes will allow.

The three-stud method shown below is the most common and is widely used throughout the construction industry. Other variations use fewer studs and may or may not use blocking.

Three-Stud Corner with Blocking One of the most common ways to build a corner is to use three studs and blocking, as shown in the photo at right. The blocking can be full-length or partial. This type of corner is the standard for most codes, as it provides a sturdy corner and creates solid nailing or screwing surfaces for drywall.

The first stud is nailed to the plating so its face is flush with the end. Then two more studs are nailed alongside this. The final stud is nailed to these so its ends are flush with the plating. Note: Although partial blocking can save material, it takes longer to install.

Three-Stud Corner without Blocking It’s possible to save a wall stud at each corner location by arranging three studs as shown in the photo. The first stud is nailed so that its face is flush with the end of the plating. The next stud is placed along its edge and nailed in place.

The last stud is nailed behind this to provide drywall surfaces on the inside corner. Note: Make sure to check your local building code to see whether this type of corner is allowed.

Two-Stud with Drywall Clips The least expensive corner you can build is also the weakest. This method uses only two studs and special metal clips commonly referred to as drywall clips or wallboard clips (see the photo and inset at left). Drywall clips are nailed or screwed to the stud 16″ on center and have a U-shaped channel to grip the drywall. Besides its economy, this method also allows you to run insulation almost to the end of the wall.

Here again, check your local building code to see whether this method of corner construction is allowed in your area. For the most part, I recommend this type of corner framing only for interior non-load-bearing partition walls.

2×6 Exterior walls are often framed with 2x6s to allow additional space for insulation. Two-by-six corners can be framed as shown in the photo at left. This method uses three 2x6s and a single 2×4. The 2×4 is inserted as blocking between two of the 2x6s. Start by nailing the first 2×6 to the plating so that its face is flush with the end of the plate.

Then position the 2×4 against its inside edge and face-nail it to the 2×6. Next, add the second 2×6 to form a U-shaped column. Finally, position the last 2×6 against the column and nail it in place.

Other Framing Types for Corners

  1. L-corners: Nail 2 × 4 spacers (A) to the inside of the end stud. Nail an extra stud (B) to the spacers. The extra stud provides a surface to attach wallboard at the inside corner.
  2. T-corner meets stud: Fasten 2 × 2 backers (A) to each side of the sidewall stud (B). The backers provide a nailing surface for wallboard.
  3. T-corner between studs: Fasten a 1 × 6 backer (A) to the end stud (B) with wallboard screws. The backer provides a nailing surface for wallboard.

Joining Sections Using Steel Studs

Steel studs and tracks have the same basic structure—a web that spans two flanged sides—but, studs also contain a ¼” lip to improve their rigidity.

Join sections with a spliced joint (A) or notched joint (B). Make a spliced joint by cutting a 2″ slit in the web of one track. Slip the other track into the slit and secure with a screw. For a notched joint, cut back the flanges of one track and taper the web so it fits into the other track; secure with a screw.

Build corners using a slip stud: A slip stud is not fastened until the adjacent drywall is in place. Form L-shaped corners (A) by overlapping the tracks. Cut off the flange on one side of one track, removing enough to allow room for the overlapping track and drywall.

Form a T-shaped corner (B) by leaving a gap between the tracks for the drywall. Secure each slip stud by screwing through the stud into the tracks of the adjacent wall.

Also screw through the backside of the drywall into the slip stud, if possible. Where there’s no backing behind the slip stud, drive screws at a 45° angle through the back corners of the slip stud and into the drywall.

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