Replacing bathroom sinks and countertops is a quick and relatively inexpensive way to give your bathroom a fresh, new look. you can learn to plan properly and install your new sink securely.
While different sinks will need to be installed depending on the variations of the kit you’re using, the basic steps in the process are usually the same.
First, disconnect the plumbing, then remove the sink basin or integral sink‑countertop unit. Next, take out any remaining countertops. Finally, start installing the new one.
By following my instructions and tricks that I have learned among my experience in this field and by focusing and keep reading you’ll learn how to assemble and fit your new sink into place quickly and efficiently.
1-Get the Necessary Tools for the Job
You can install a new sink with basic tools that you may have before and new components that match the valves already installed in your plumbing. Make sure you have:
- Utility knife
- Basin wrench
- Channel‑type pliers
- adjustable wrench
- reciprocating saw
- Hacksaw or pipe cutter
- Flat pry bar
- Work gloves
- Eye and ear protection
- Silicone caulking
- Plumbers’ wrenches, either a pipe wrench or slip-joint pliers
- Set of plumbing sockets
2- Turning OFF the Water Supply Valves
always before you start any plumbing work you must first shut off the water and/or the gas supply to the part that you are working on, in our situation we need to shut off the water supply to the sink before we remove it.
Typically located beneath the sink, If the valves are not beneath the sink, then you’ll have to turn off the main water supply. This is typically located on a lower level.
To test, turn on the hot and cold water on your sink and make sure no water comes out before proceeding.
3-How to Disconnect Sink Plumbing
- Turn off the shutoff valves, then remove the coupling nuts that connect the supply tube to the faucet tailpieces using a basin wrench. If the supply tubes are soldered, cut them above the shutoff valves.
- With a bucket beneath, remove the P-trap by loosening the slip nuts at both ends. If the nuts will not turn, cut out the drain trap with a hacksaw. When prying or cutting, take care to avoid damaging the trap arm that runs into the wall.
- Disconnect the pop-up drain linkage from the tailpiece of the sink drain by unscrewing the retaining nut.
4-Removing the Existing Sink
Undermount sink: Disconnect the plumbing, including the drain tailpiece. To support the sink, tie wire around a piece of scrap wood and set the wood across the sink opening. Thread the wire down through the drain hole and attach it to another scrap of wood. Twist the wire until taut, then detach the mounting clips. Slice through any caulking, slowly loosen the wire, then remove the sink.
Self-rimming sink: Disconnect the plumbing, then slice through any caulking or sealant between the sink rim and the countertop using a utility knife. Lift the sink off the countertop.
Wall-mounted sink: Disconnect the plumbing, slice through any caulk or sealant, then lift the sink off the wall brackets. For models attached with lag screws, wedge 2 × 4s between the sink and floor to support it while the screws are removed.
Pedestal sink: Disconnect the plumbing. If the sink and pedestal are bolted together, disconnect them. Remove the pedestal first, supporting the sink from below with 2 × 4s. Lift the sink off the wall brackets (photo, left).
Integral sink-countertop: Disconnect the plumbing, then detach the mounting hardware underneath the countertop. Slice through any caulk or sealant between the countertop and wall and between the countertop and vanity. Lift the sink-countertop unit off the vanity.
5-Installing The New Sink
1. Remove the existing sink.
Remove the existing sink if any. Remove wall coverings as necessary to install blocking for mounting the sink. Reroute water-supply and drain lines as necessary, according to the sink manufacturer’s directions. The sink in this project required the center points of the waste pipe by 21″ and the supply lines 24¾” up from the finished floor.
If you’re unsure of your plumbing skills or code requirements, hire a professional plumber for this part of the project. Install blocking between the studs for attaching the mounting bracket for the sink. A doubled 2 × 8 is installed here.
Has your plumbing inspected, if required by your municipality, before you install the drywall and finished wall surface?
2. Drill guide holes for the mounting bolts
your sink is a direct-mount model, as this one is. Some wall-hung sinks are hung from a mounting bracket. The bolts used to hang this sink are threaded like lag screws on one end, with a bolt end that projects from the wall.
The guide holes should be spaced exactly as the manufacturer specifies so they align with the mounting holes in the back mounting flange on the sink.
TIP: Protect tile surfaces with masking tape in the drilling areas to avoid chip‑out.
3. Drive the Threaded Mounting Bolts Into the Guide Holes
. There should be pilot holes (smaller than the guide holes) driven into the blocking. To drive this hardware, spin a pair of nuts onto the bolt end and turn the bolt closest to you with a wrench.
Drive the mounting bolt until the end is projecting out from the wall by a little more than 1½”.
Remove the nuts. Install the pop-up drain in the sink and then slide the sink over the ends of the mounting bolts so the mounting flange is flush against the wall. You’ll want help with this.
Thread the washers and nuts onto the ends of the mounting bolts and hand-tighten. Check to make sure the sink is level and then tighten the nuts with a socket or wrench, reaching up into the void between the basin and the flange. Don’t overtighten— you could crack the sink flange.
4. Have a Helper
Hold the Sink Pedestal in position against the underside of the sink. Mark the edges of the pedestal on the wall covering as reference for installing the pedestal-mounting hardware.
5. Remove the pedestal and drill the pilot holes for the pedestal mounting bolts
which work in much the same way as the sink-mounting bolts. Drill guide and pilot holes, then drive the mounting bolts, leaving about 1¼” of the bolt end exposed.
6. Install the drain and drain tailpiece on the sink
Also, mount the faucet body to the sink deck if you have not done so already. Also, attach the drain-trap arm to the drain stub-out in the wall and attach shutoff valves to the drain-supply lines.
7. Complete the drain connection
by installing a P-trap assembly that connects the tailpiece and the trap arm. Also, connect the drain pop-up rod that projects out of the tailpiece to the popup plunger mechanism you’ve already installed.
8. Make sure the shutoff valve fittings are tight and oriented correctly
then hook up the faucet supply risers to the shutoff valves. Turn on the water supply and test.
9. Slide the pedestal into place on the mounting studs
Working through the access space under the sink, use a wrench to tighten the mounting nut over the washer on the stud. Carefully tighten the nut until the pedestal is held securely in place. Be careful not to overtighten the nut.
10. Attach the towel bar to the sink
By first pushing the well nuts into the holes on the underside of the sink rim. Set the bar in place, and screw in the attachment screws on both sides, just until snug.
To quickly and easily find an under sink leak, lay bright white paper or paper towels under the pipes and drain connections. Open the water supply valves and run water in the sinks. It should be clear exactly where the water dripped from by the location of the drip on the paper.
How much does it cost to install a bathroom sink?
Installation costs vary greatly depending on the style of sink, the complexity of the job, and the contractor. On average, homeowners report paying between 150$ to 300$ for the plumber labor, and with the fixtures, on average it cost 380$, and you can minimize your costs by doing the work with yourself.