Every work you have done or anyone did need to be finished. and Wood trimming, either painted or stained, is the finishing touch for your walls, windows, and doors.
In the next lines, I will show and teach you as much as I know, according to my experience and my researches about this title to add more value to this post, so, focus and keep reading until you get it.
Choosing Trim Materials
Things to consider when choosing trim materials:
- If you will paint your trim, be aware that priming and painting can take longer than installation. Consider buying primed trim, which needs only a quick coat of finish paint.
- Medium-density fiberboard (MDF) trim is an inexpensive option that resists denting. However, it will swell up if it gets even a little wet, so use it only where you expect things to stay dry.
- You may be tempted to buy faux-finished trim boards that are very lightweight; they are made of polystyrene. I do not recommend this product, because it is easily dented, and even minor imperfections cannot be filled in attractively.
- Unfinished softwood (usually pine) is a very common choice. It’s easy to work with and can be either primed and painted or stained. However, it is somewhat susceptible to denting, and if stained will not have the rich look of hardwood.
- Oak or other hardwood will set you back in the bucks department. With a power miter saw and a power nailer, it is no more difficult to cut and install than the other types. It resists dents and is easily stained for a very handsome look.
Trimming a Door
Once a door is installed, the gap between jamb and wall needs to be covered with casing. Installing casing is pretty much the same for doors as for windows. Here, I show installing plain casing with backband, for mitered casing and casing with plinth blocks, see the post on trimming a window.
- The molding here is simple primed 1x4, rip-cut to a width of 27⁄8 in. so it will look less massive.
- You can also purchase “plain” casing. If you add backband as I do (steps 8 and 9), be sure it will match up with the casing’s thickness. Check the area around the door opening and scrape away any protrusions, so the casing can lie flat against the wall and jamb edge.
- If the jamb edge protrudes a bit past the wall surface, plane or sand it flush. Use a sliding square and pencil to draw a line all around the jamb edge showing the “reveal”-he portion of the jamb edge that will be exposed after the casing is installed.
- Measure the height of the side casing pieces-from the floor to the reveal line on the head jamb. Cut the side pieces and install them along the reveal lines-or so they just barely cover the lines. Start at the bottom and drive pairs of nails every 16 in. or so as you go up.
- You’ll probably need to bend the casing slightly to keep it aligned with the line. If you are driving hand nails, use small brad nails to drive into the jamb and 6d nails for attaching to the wall framing. If you have a power nailer, 2-in. finish nails work fine for both, but angle the nails slightly back when driving into the jamb, so the nails don’t poke through the face of the jamb. Measure across the side casing pieces for the size of the head casing.
- Hold the top casing in place; if it angles outward, you may need to slice the drywall paper around the outline and tap the wall in with a hammer and flat tool.
- Install the head casing with nails driven into the casing and the framing, and at an angle through the side casing.
- Measure for cutting the backband, mark the inside where it will meet the corners of the plain casing, and cut at a 45° bevel.
- Hold the backband pieces so they form tight miter joints and drive small finish nails to attach to the plain casing.
7a-Attach the head casing with nails driven into the jamb and framing . . .
7b-…. and through the side casing.
Answering Related Questions
How do you sand the bottom of a door?
- To sand the bottom of a door without removing it put the sandpaper on the floor, grit side up, and pull the door back and forth across it. Planing is usually the last resort since it will mean touching up the planed area with a sealer or finish to match the door. A rasp-type plane will often do the best job.
- If the condition has developed over time, you’ll be able to attempt alteration all of the screws on the hinges. If any of the screws turn within the wood without alteration up, then you’ll replace them with longer screws that grip the stud behind the frame and pull the door above your floor.
- move the door and hinges upon the frame, or leave the hinges within the frame and move the door up. Since most interior doors are hollow, readjusting the door within the frame should not be too tough.
Can I use a jigsaw to trim a door?
I Use a jigsaw and/or a circular saw to trim the new door to size.and will probably find that the bottom of the door needs to be trimmed to the correct height and you can use a jigsaw or circular saw to do this too.
Use a circular saw or a hand saw, a jigsaw is far from ideal for long straight cuts.
The first door you cut will indicate if you have enough timber in the base. If you cut out the timber with the cut then you will need to reinstate that timber to the base of the door.
Safer to take a few mm off top and bottom and rehang the door, but will require a plane.
Should baseboards match door trim?
The classic method is to use white for ceiling and trim (baseboards and window and door casings), and then paint the wall color or hang wallpaper. or, especially for hardwood baseboards that match the floor: staining or finishing them in the same color as the floor. always it’s your choice.